eating my way through the city of love
Two Weeks, Twelve Plates: A Paris Food Love Story
Paris is, quite literally, considered many different “capitals” of the world: the fashion capital, the love capital, and, of course, the food capital. From the bread and butter to the charcuterie to the wine (a food group of its own), and just about everything in between, Paris really does hold some of the best flavors on earth.
I think I first fell in love with Paris the moment I walked into my first restaurant, took a sip of wine, and had my first bite of Parisian cuisine. I was surrounded by lovely company from all walks of life, and that alone added to the magic of the city. Paris is full of people from everywhere (as any major city is), but there’s a certain charm in how they all seem to coexist over food, wine, and long afternoons.
And let me take a moment to say… almost every interaction I had with people in Paris was lovely. Besides a server or Carrefour worker or two, everyone else was happy to help, happy to speak any language they could, simply happy to be living in the city. At least for the few moments I interacted with them, and honestly, that’s all I needed.
That being said, I completely embraced my tourist era. I visited the museums, sat by the Eiffel Tower with wine and cheese in the middle of the day, walked into every souvenir shop my heart desired, and yes — I tried every bite of food my stomach yearned for (and she was voracious).
From the 1st to about the 14th arrondissement (and a little beyond), I explored the inner workings of the city in every way I could. But for now, let’s take a stroll into my post-Paris food tour… I mean, guide.
Civetta Trattoria Italiana
The most fabulous interior decor I’ve seen. I mean, I genuinely wanted to move in. Beyond the tranquil rustic Italian vibe, this place has some of the best pizza I’ve had in Europe. The whole-grain crust threw me off at first, but once I understood and embraced it, we thoroughly enjoyed every slice. Not to mention, their wine selection was absolutely fabulous.
Ágata
We needed a late-night bite, and Ágata was exactly the place. The interior was adorable, and they even had a few chairs outside if your heart desired a Parisian sidewalk moment. The pizza came out in about five minutes: hot, fresh, and utterly delicious. We were too full for dessert, but the tiramisu had our eye from the table nearby, so I’ll make a friendly suggestion now: get it.
Petibon
This sweet little café, just minutes from the Eiffel Tower, is where to go if you’re craving a matcha or latte that leans into the “sweet treat” category. I got the cherry matcha three times while I was there (sue me) and also tried the equally divine caramel latte. If you need a mid-day pick-me-up in the 7th, this is a must-go.
Sevenly Heart
A stunning café serving some of the best matcha I’ve ever had. The decor is minimal, rustic, and a little vintage, a lovely mix of all three. It’s the perfect place to sit, breathe, and reset after weaving through the streets of Le Marais.
Noura Marceau — Brasserie Libanaise & Salon de Thé
My very first bite after landing in Paris — shared with my boyfriend and his father, who swore he never visits Paris without stopping here. A beautiful Lebanese restaurant with flavors that fill your mouth with warmth and joy. Outside of the falafel wrap I ate and the various dips and breads, I tried the typical pine nut mint tea at the end of the meal, and it was beyond delicious. Definitely something new to me and so memorable. Maybe I, too, have to make this a go-to ritual.
Ralph’s Coffee — Saint-Germain
Of course, my American heart had to go. After seeing this online and hearing about the New York location, I needed to get my hands on a cup 1) for the cute logo and Ralph Lauren Paris atmosphere (no shame) and 2) because the coffee actually is that good. I was in a sweet mood and got a caramel latte, and it had just the right hint of sweetness. There’s also a restaurant connected behind it that looked extra lovely with menu items such a burgers and mini loster rolls. Thank you, Ralph.
La Grande Épicerie de Paris
Not a restaurant technically, but the gourmet food store lover in me had to include it. I bought all kinds of ingredients here to make a ravioli dinner, including, of course, fresh ravioli and authentic French butter. If you’re looking for some of the highest-quality ingredients in Paris, this is your spot. It’s pure heaven.
Marché couvert des Enfants Rouges
This covered food market is filled with happy bellies — I just know it. From “the butcher of Paris” to Asian cuisine, Italian stalls, a wine bar, and so much more — this is an absolute must-visit. I went straight for the wine and cheese stand. I can’t remember the exact name, but if you see a stall with small wheels of camembert cheese and people eating potatoes dripping in melted cheese — that’s the one. My boyfriend and I ordered wine, cheese, and potatoes, and although we waited a while for the cheese to bake, it was worth every second. My taste buds were dancing.
Rojo
A beautiful wine bar in the 3rd arrondissement. I arrived right at opening with my friends, and good thing because there was a line out the door moments after. The atmosphere was candlelit and cozy, with an upstairs, downstairs, and even a smoking room if your heart desires. The wine was excellent as for we ordered an orange and red from the natural wine selection. However, the cheese plate could’ve used a bit more cheese, but it was still a lovely stop.
Café Carrousel
A sweet café/restaurant right next to many of the main museums, perfect for fueling up before a full day of art gazing. I got the cheese omelette, and it was everything I wanted: cheesy, fluffy, and satisfying. With a surprisingly tasty, simple side salad. The coffee was just as lovely, too. There’s a big indoor space and an even bigger outdoor seating area. Highly recommend starting your museum day here.
Copains
I have a love-hate relationship with this spot. The pastries were absolutely delicious and very fairly priced. However… the coffee situation was a tad sneaky. One person works the register while another guides you through milk choices, syrups, extra shots — all while making it seem essential. For a small vanilla latte with an extra shot and regular milk, I paid 12 euros. Meanwhile, the two pastries together were only 4.5 euros and completely worth it. So: come for the pastries, skip the upsold coffee.
L’Escale
Lastly on my list: a place I didn’t technically eat a full meal at, only fries and wine, but that was all I needed. L’Escale sits on the little island on the Seine, and if you can grab a table outside on a sunny day, overlooking the river with a glass in hand, that’s quite literally nothing better than that. That’s the Paris moment.
After being in Paris for two weeks with a fully satisfied belly the entire time, I can confidently say: this city requires an empty stomach and a little money saved just for food.
If you end up trying any of these places, comment below or message me on socials, I would love to hear your thoughts. And stay tuned, because I still have a list of places I didn’t get to eat at yet (and they look incredible.)
Make sure you’re subscribed to my Substack or following along on Instagram to see part two.
Until next time!
xoxo,
Avalon